Capri

19-Settembre-2011

Thunder woke me multiple times.  It rained so hard I was worried that the water on the patio off our room would back up over the door jamb and flood the room.  We awoke to more rain, but after hemming and hawing at breakfast, we decided to take the ferry to Capri anyway.  Good decision, even though the ride was frightfully bumpy.  We were entertained by a group of young German students singing an old Italian pop song almost correctly.  “Oggi, ti amo di più.”  Today we love you more too, but you can stop singing now.  

Leaving stormy Sorrento for Capri.  We stayed in the yellow Hotel Tramontano.

Arriving at Capri's Marina Grande

Just after we arrived, the skies cleared and though it was windy, it was a beautiful day.  Doing a good bit of walking, we were able to take in much of Capri town, the three Faraglioni, and Arco Naturale.  

Capri Town Square

Tre Faraglioni

Kinda makes you want to sit on top, doesn't it?

I’m happy to walk pretty much all day and see the sights, but it seems that sometimes others have different priorities.  We all hopped onto the bus up to the high town of Anacapri.  Interesting to see the reactions of all around you as the tiny bus climbs the steep road, passing oncoming traffic in places that don’t seem nearly wide enough for two vehicles.  The 1000 foot drop straight down past the short stone guard rail is also a conversation starter if you dare to look out the windows.

I had recently read the Story of San Michele, the semi-autobiographical account of Dr. Axel Munthe, who as a young man had fallen in love with Capri.  Part of his experience was rebuilding what he was to call the Villa San Michele on the site of an Imperial Roman Villa, Christian Chapel, and fortresses of both the French and British.  Thus I was compelled to drag Dave along to visit the villa after Mary and Becky were overcome with an irresistible urge to head back down to better shopping.  

The good doctor had a sense of style.

The cliff-side walkway.  I could enjoy this longer term.

The magnificent building and grounds were full of Roman artifacts unearthed from the site and also from the doctor’s travels.  

The view from San Michele in Anacapri

We had intended to take the chairlift to the top of the island, but the storm-following winds prevented the lift from running.  We’d already tempted fate once on the trip in regard to Dave’s heart, so we left the remaining 1000 feet to a future visit.  Or more correctly in Italy, the remaining 300 meters.  Undaunted, Dave and I tromped around Anacapri to prove to ourselves there was not much else to see.  Suspicion confirmed, we headed back down to join the ladies.

Il gatto protects the streets of Anacapri.

We found them shopping.  I hate shopping, but it is part of the give and take, right?  But the activity irritates me both in light of the spending, particularly for items where my concept of value is obviously faulty, and in the meandering time it takes.  When it is required, I am a surgical-strike shopper, minimizing unnecessary collateral damage and time.  Perhaps worst of all is walking in circles trying to re-locate the store identified earlier for the big purchase.  And of course, there is that bit instilled by depression-era parents about “If it ain’t broke, I don’t need a new one.” But anyone who enjoys shopping loves the discovery of new items, the splendid displays, the indecision on the perfection of the item at hand, the helpful bi-lingual staff, and the thrill of the hunt.  I think shopping ranks somewhere between a visit to the dentist and a colonoscopy.

The ladies pose while the cherubs sport their bloomies.

I have the sense that it is good to watch your money anywhere in Italy, but especially in Capri.  The Funicolare is the tram that takes you from the harbor to Capri town and back.  At the ticket counter, both on the way up and on the way down, I was given the wrong change, first lacking €5 from my 20, and a single Euro when I paid in change.  They get you coming and going.  I didn’t even have to complain when I returned to the window after realizing what had happened…my correct change simply materialized.  What a coincidence.  

Traveling in foreign countries, I always expect to be fleeced a bit.  I just don’t want to be any more stupid about it than I have to be.  Or at least no more stupid than I eventually realize.

All were proud of Becky, who managed to stay healthy on the way to and from the island, though even the larger of the two ferries pitched significantly on the way back.  We celebrated her brave victory over motion sickness with a stop on the terrace at the Hotel Tramontano. 

We had a nice dinner at a busy cafe and walked between the raindrops that returned as we finished the day.  


We all agreed that we must return to Capri.  There is so much more to do.  There are several ruins of Imperial villas on the heights, the most impressive reportedly being the Villa Jovis, where Tiberius spent his waning years.  The fortress of Barbarossa sits half way up the mountain above San Michele, with its surrounding bird sanctuary.  I’d be remiss not to mention nightlife and restaurants.  And of course, the blue grotto always beckons.  

And shopping.  Ugh.  We’ll need at least 3 days and more money.  A lot more money.